Adaptive Cosmetic Assessment Across Diverse Skin Phototypes: A Narrative Review with Professional Observational Evidence

Authors

  • Zekhra Aneliia Balukh

Keywords:

adaptive cosmetic assessment, personalized cosmetology, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes, skin physiology, foundation performance, individualized cosmetic assessment

Abstract

The increasing diversity of skin phototypes, physiological skin characteristics, and aesthetic expectations has significantly increased the need for individualized cosmetic assessment in professional makeup practice. Although contemporary cosmetic science has introduced substantial advances in formulation technology and complexion products, practical cosmetic outcomes continue to depend largely on individual physiological characteristics rather than cosmetic products alone. Consequently, standardized makeup protocols frequently fail to achieve reproducible aesthetic results across heterogeneous client populations. This review integrates current scientific knowledge with professional observational evidence collected during routine aesthetic practice to present an adaptive approach to cosmetic assessment. Particular attention is devoted to the influence of Fitzpatrick skin phototypes, skin physiology, hydration status, barrier integrity, sebum production, pigmentation characteristics, undertone compatibility, and foundation behavior on cosmetic performance. To illustrate the practical application of individualized assessment, professional observations obtained from 1,728 cosmetic applications performed during a twelve-month period are discussed as observational evidence supporting adaptive cosmetic decision-making. Based on these observations and current literature, the Adaptive Cosmetic Assessment Framework is proposed as a structured professional model designed to support individualized skin evaluation, product selection, skin preparation, and continuous cosmetic assessment throughout the application process. Rather than replacing existing cosmetic science, the framework translates contemporary scientific knowledge into a reproducible methodology applicable in routine professional cosmetology. The proposed approach may contribute to improving cosmetic compatibility, foundation stability, aesthetic consistency, and professional education while providing a practical foundation for further research in personalized cosmetology and adaptive cosmetic science.

Author Biography

  • Zekhra Aneliia Balukh

    Independent Researcher,Brooklyn, New York, USA

References

[1] T. B. Fitzpatrick, “The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI,” Archives of Dermatology, vol. 124, no. 6, pp. 869–871, 1988, doi:10.1001/archderm.124.6.869.

[2] L. Baumann, Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice, 2nd ed. New York, NY, USA: McGraw-Hill Education, 2009.

[3] Z. D. Draelos, Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, 3rd ed. Hoboken, NJ, USA: Wiley-Blackwell, 2022.

[4] A. O. Barel, M. Paye, and H. I. Maibach, Eds., Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 5th ed. Boca Raton, FL, USA: CRC Press, 2022.

[5] S. Luebberding, N. Krueger, and M. Kerscher, “Skin physiology in men and women: In vivo evaluation of TEWL, skin hydration, sebum content and skin surface pH,” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 35, no. 5, pp. 477–483, 2013, doi:10.1111/ics.12068.

[6] R. Oliveira et al., “An overview of methods to characterize skin type,” Cosmetics, vol. 10, no. 1, Art. no. 14, 2023, doi:10.3390/cosmetics10010014.

[7] S. Verdier-Sévrain and F. Bonté, “Skin hydration and the role of moisturizers in optimizing barrier function,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 75–82, 2007, doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x.

[8] E. Proksch, J. M. Brandner, and J. M. Jensen, “The skin: An indispensable barrier,” Experimental Dermatology, vol. 17, no. 12, pp. 1063–1072, 2008, doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00786.x.

[9] P. M. Elias, “Stratum corneum defensive functions: An integrated view,” Journal of Investigative Dermatology, vol. 125, no. 2, pp. 183–200, 2005, doi:10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23668.x.

[10] A. V. Rawlings and C. R. Harding, “Moisturization and skin barrier function,” Dermatologic Therapy, vol. 17, Suppl. 1, pp. 43–48, 2004, doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1005.x.

[11] J. W. Fluhr, R. Darlenski, and C. Surber, “Glycerol and the skin: Holistic approach to its origin and functions,” British Journal of Dermatology, vol. 159, no. 1, pp. 23–34, 2008, doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2008.08643.x.

[12] S. C. Taylor, “Skin of color: Biology, structure, function, and implications for dermatologic disease,” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 46, Suppl. 2, pp. S41–S62, 2002, doi:10.1067/mjd.2002.120790.

[13] H. J. Lee, S. E. Jeong, S. Lee, et al., “Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial cheeks with different hydration levels,” MicrobiologyOpen, vol. 7, e557, 2018, doi:10.1002/mbo3.557.

[14] C. C. Chang, S. T. Hsing, Y. C. Chuang, et al., “Development of a portable device for skin color estimation in cosmetic foundation application,” in Proceedings of the IEEE International Conference on Industrial Electronics and Applications, 2017, doi:10.1109/ICIEA.2017.8282882.

[15] Y. S. Yolanda et al., “Discoloration of liquid foundation across the shade color spectrum,” Skin Research and Technology, 2025, doi:10.1111/srt.70076.

[16] S. Purnamawati, N. Indrastuti, R. Danarti, and T. Saefudin, “The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: A review,” Clinical Medicine Research, vol. 15, nos. 3–4, pp. 75–87, 2017, doi:10.3121/cmr.2017.1363.

[17] N. Madnani et al., “Revitalizing the skin: Exploring the role of barrier repair moisturizers in dermatological practice,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024, doi:10.1111/jocd.16171.

[18] Z. D. Draelos, “The relationship between skin physiology and cosmetic formulation performance,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 20, no. 11, pp. 3307–3315, 2021.

[19] Y. Liu et al., “Personalized skincare and precision cosmetology: Current advances and future perspectives,” Cosmetics, vol. 10, no. 6, Art. no. 170, 2023.

[20] I. Lopes et al., “Skin hydration and color parameters in healthy adults: Associations with cosmetic skin assessment,” Skin Research and Technology, vol. 30, e70028, 2024.

[21] S. Del Bino and F. Bernerd, “Variations in skin colour and implications for cosmetic science,” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 35, no. 5, pp. 451–457, 2013.

[22] B. Dréno et al., “The skin microbiome: A new actor in cosmetic science,” Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, vol. 36, Suppl., pp. 3–12, 2022.

[23] Cosmetics Europe, Product Testing Guidelines for Cosmetic Performance Evaluation, Brussels, Belgium, 2023.

[24] International Organization for Standardization (ISO), ISO 11930: Cosmetics—Microbiology—Evaluation of the Antimicrobial Protection of a Cosmetic Product. Geneva, Switzerland: ISO.

[25] International Organization for Standardization (ISO), ISO 22716: Cosmetics—Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). Geneva, Switzerland: ISO.

Downloads

Published

2026-08-10

Issue

Section

Articles

How to Cite

Zekhra Aneliia Balukh. (2026). Adaptive Cosmetic Assessment Across Diverse Skin Phototypes: A Narrative Review with Professional Observational Evidence. American Scientific Research Journal for Engineering, Technology, and Sciences, 104(1), 354-368. https://www.asrjetsjournal.org/American_Scientific_Journal/article/view/12299